Achamma and Amma fed me till I burst
A short story of realizing nothing beats home made food.
Our house in Mangalore always smelled of food: Achamma’s bisi bele bhaat, Amma’s kara chutney, and Akka’s rasam. With thirteen people in the house, someone was always hungry. And a lady was in the kitchen, wiping the sweat from her forehead with the edge of her saree, serving with a smile.
All the ladies of my home laughed and teased each other while trying both old and new recipes. One would think my grandmother would school them to work quietly. No. My Achamma was the most likely to crack not-so-appropriate jokes, attracting all the ladies from village to spend their evenings at our home.
I was never a part of this group. I never bothered to go inside the kitchen and learn like my cousin sisters. My mother worried I would starve by myself while Achamma served me outside the kitchen, “Not while I am alive”, she’d say to Amma.
So, I never learned to cook until I moved to Delhi. The ladies had packed two bags of dry chutneys, powders, and batters in tin boxes under Achamma’s supervision.
Appa made sure to store them properly. My father was diligent in pasting my old school name chits on all the boxes. He wrote on them with a black permanent marker so I wouldn’t mix them all up.
Those two bags lasted me a month. I thought that the old lady in front of my flat would help me, just like the ladies back home who would go to each other’s house to lend a hand during feasts. My hope vanished when she slammed the door in my face the morning I went to introduce myself. I returned back to the flat crying, forgetting my packet of milk on the doorstep. A stray cat got to it before I left for the office.
My apartment smelled like Maggi and fried rice for a month until I gave up and hired an aunty to cook for me. The first one only knew how to make dal and chapati. Aloo subji graced my plate if she was in a good mood.
The second one promised me she knew how to make South Indian food, but got irritated when I asked her to make dosa every night. She left when I couldn’t eat her vadai and gave it to the cat outside. The feline played with the fried snack for hours before she got tired of smacking it across the wall.
The third aunty kept muttering about me being skinny, yet she poured no ghee over my idli. Before I could compromise with her, the couple living in the next flat lured her with an offer of better pay and less work.
I didn’t bother looking for another aunty after her. I tried learning how to cook from Youtube.
The videos demanded more ingredients and patience than I had. No matter what I made, it never tasted anything like home. Asking Amma for help would have been a defeat. She would just gloat, saying I should have listened to her and learned to cook for myself when I had the chance.
I was slowly growing sick. Of the instant coffee I gulped down in the morning, the stale bread I made for lunch, and then the noodles that resembled my dried hair without Achamma oiling them every Sunday.
No one was surprised when I fainted in the office one day. They gave me pitying looks and I was sent back to my flat in a cab to rest. I packed my bags and left for home that night, placing the milk out for the cat.
The reflection in the bus window barely resembled the girl who had left home six months ago. I was running a fever of 104, my under eyes were darker than my hair, and I could barely get my ticket checked by the conductor before falling into an uneasy sleep.
Woken up by a bony hand, I saw the blurry image of an old lady. I tried to sit straighter, but she gently pushed me back, offering crispy banana chips from her tin tiffin. I looked at her in question. She pushed the chips further into my face with a smile. I took some and gave her a nod to be polite.
Achamma’s lessons about taking food from strangers echoed in my head. But I was not a child anymore, and the greasy feeling of the treat tempted me to gulp it down. It melted in my mouth. A sigh left my lips. I fell back asleep as the salt made its way down my throat.
My brother took my bags while I leaned my whole body on Appa as we got home, thankful for their silence. The street was barely lit at midnight, and the drizzle had made the ground slippery. I just wanted to sleep in my bed.
But that thought flew out as soon as I stepped inside the house. Every member was waiting for me in the thinnai, front of the house, not letting me step into the Verandah before they descended on me.
Achamma pushed them away with her walking stick and took my face with trembling hands. She moved it from side to side and exclaimed how thin I had gotten. She took my hand in a tight grip and led me through the Verandah to the kitchen in front of the main door. She pushed me down to sit on the ground before taking a seat in her wicker chair. It had been her throne since I could remember. It was an unspoken rule to not sit there. She gave one look to Amma and a banana leaf was placed in front of me.
Amma put heaps of hot rice on my leaf. Just the aroma of fresh food made me forget how tired I was. My face must have fallen at my mother pouring only ghee on my rice, which made Achamma laugh out loud. The whole family followed her in their amusement at my disappointment. I looked around in confusion when they all sat beside me. Akka put the leaves out for all of them.
Amma waved her hand to the ladies, and they went in to bring out the feast. Three types of chutney, papadum, spicy podi powder, sambhar, and my favorite goli baji. I was amazed at how they managed to keep my cousins from eating all those fritters before I reached home. The fights over every last piece had been a constant in the house since we were kids. But that night, I got a full plate for myself. It must be the threat of Achamma’s walking stick that kept them away.
Everyone sat down to eat, except Achamma who had dinner at dusk, and Amma. I looked at her when she sat beside me with a smile. She shook her head when I reached for another leaf for her and started mixing my food the way I liked. She fed me like she did when I fell sick as a child.
I leaned my shoulder on the wall beside me, sounds of familiar discussions and laughter washing over me. My fever must have gone down. I felt better with each bite.
In the end, I shook my head at Amma to stop. But Achamma stood up to serve Mysore pak and payasam, my favorite desserts. I sighed at her grin, which spread across her wrinkled face in glee as she patted my mother's shoulder, telling her not to listen to me.
I did not refuse Amma's hand again. I never will.
This story was first published by Mysticeti Magazine.
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Thanks for kindly correcting my incorrect Hindi. Your other stories look great! You seem to have a wide range of things to write about. And unintimidated strong people write about teddy bears. 🧸 You seem to have a great collection already started which would make a great first book.
Love this story because it automatically makes anyone think of their favorite India food and how good it makes you feel. I like simple stuff like aloe mattar peas and potatoes in masala spice sauce or chicken tika masala with the creamy sauce that looks like the color of lobster. My favorite dessert is rice with flecks of color in a sweet clear thin syrup of cardamom. It was available at a tiny restaurant reached by walking up a steep set of stairs perched over a tiny mosque. This was cooked by uncle or chacha who was a huge man with lots of hair and a kind heart who knew how to make India food that always tasted great. The dessert is usually eaten cold with a spoon but sometimes he had just pulled it out of the oven and though warm it tasted just as good. There was bindi (okra) in a thin masala sauce or Gobi (cauliflower) in a masala sauce and it was so good but hot. It was so hot that an elephant would turn red after eating it. This is imaginary but to me it revealed how hot India food can be, nowhere near as hot as it can be at it's hottest. Your story made me think of this little place with it's wonderful India food. It was in an old brownstone three story that must have been built in the 1800s in Murray Hill or the Curry Hill part of New York City. The little place had to shut down although the mosque is still there, barely. The very old dilapidated building will be demolished to make room for a huge tall skyscraper mixed use building with the mosque rebuilt inside on the third floor. The huge lot that stretches from the north front of 23rd to the south back of 24th street has been dug out but it has been almost four years and nothing more has been done. Your story of India food brings that all back for me. Amazing what memories it may stir up in the minds of anyone who loves India food. Not for nothing is India often called Mother India, especially because of how great the food is. Hope you receive a lot of great feedback from this story. If you put together a collection of your best stories in a book, this would be one of the best of them.